Philip Haslett of luxury DMC Kairos Travel takes us down to the fishermen’s wharf for a sampling of bouillabaisse, a simple stew as iconic to the region as the coastline itself.
Can you tell us about a particular dish from this region?
For the Southeast of France, I have to stick to a very classic dish that conjures up images of Marseille, the Mediterranean, the sound of cicadas, and the wonderful musical accent of the locals often referred to as the accent du soleil or the accent of sunshine. The dish is bouillabaisse: a simple fisherman’s stew initially made from the unsold fish at the market. Originally this dish was not to be found on the finest tables, but over time things have changed. Each family in Marseille has its own recipe that varies depending on the fish available that day. Usually featured are gurnard, conger, and rascasse. I also take particular delight in the wonderfully simple name of the dish: bouille, to boil, and baisse, to turn down. When the fish broth boils, turn it down! Of course, the secret is in the broth itself!
In your opinion, where can the best bouillabaisse be found?
There are many excellent restaurants where you can enjoy a traditional bouillabaisse across the region, but perhaps a special mention for originality should go to Lionel Levy, Michelin starred chef at the Intercontinental Hotel in Marseille. If you want to discover the taste of this iconic specialty with a twist, then try his signature dish, “Milkshake de bouille-abaisse,” which, rest assured, does not resemble a milkshake but is just as delicious. Take it from me!
How can guests best enjoy this dish?
In the best of all worlds, a bouillabaisse has to be enjoyed with the Mediterranean Sea within view! Ideally, with a pastis as an aperitif and followed by a white wine from the vineyards of Cassis, although many others work as well. And lastly, in this perfect daydream, since the garlicky rouille sauce is an essential component of this dish and has a habit of staying very present for some time after you’ve finished your meal, a hammock or sunbed for a siesta afterward is a must. Under the shade of the Mediterranean pin parasol pine trees, you’ll be lulled by cicadas singing and tummy rumbling contentedly.
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